Volcanic Bombs and Cargo Cults by Mike Lyvers
Location:Yasur Volcano - 16.2S, 168.1E
Elevation: 1,184 feet (361 m)
On May 12 2006, I boarded a 3 hour flight from Brisbane Australia to the South Pacific island nation of Vanuatu. Flying into the sleepy capitol, Port Vila, I could see the distant plume of volcanic ash from the Lopevi Volcano which recently started erupting. Lopevi is an isolated, remote, uninhabited volcanic isle that is logistically difficult and expensive to reach, so my volcanologist friend John Seach and I had decided to take the easier and more reliable volcanic option, Yasur Volcano on Tanna Island, which has been in more or less continuous eruption for 800 years. I was looking forward to enjoying Yasur's spectacular fireworks from the crater rim. When I had previously been there in 1996, Yasur was displaying its highest activity in 30 years and I could only briefly visit the crater rim due to extreme danger. Photography had been out of the question. This time I hoped the activity would be lower - though of course not TOO much lower.
The next day I flew from Port Vila to Tanna in a prop plane and then rode in the back of a truck for
2 1/2 hours on very bumpy dirt roads to reach the volcano side of the lush tropical island. At the primitive but quite pleasant Jungle Oasis Bungalows I rented a creaky hut surrounded by beautiful tropical gardens. Here I met up with John, who had already been there a week, photographing and filming the volcano every night. John was tired and hungry after his latest trek up the mountain so I joined several other Aussie tourists to hike up for a sunset view of the eruptions. John would join me at the crater's edge later that night, after a much-needed meal and rest.
Upon reaching the crater rim everyone was astonished at the power, fury and beauty of the erupting volcano. Some were rendered speechless, while others talked non-stop in a nervous fashion, asking me questions like "Is this safe?" Of course the obvious answer is "NO!" The largest explosions created shock waves which felt like a full body slam and sent thousands of glowing volcanic bombs soaring as high as 400 meters above the vent in a magnificent display. The activity was increasing and each explosion seemed a bit bigger than the previous one. The others got nervous and headed down, while I set up my tripod on the crater rim to take some photos while waiting for John. I managed to capture some of the extraordinary beauty of these volcanic fireworks on film, though my vantage point was a bit risky as bombs occasionally sailed overhead and one even landed at that very spot a few minutes after I retreated.
Yasur's fireworks. Height of bombs 300+ meters. Photo copyrighted by Mike Lyvers.
The next 3 nights were equally fantastic on the volcano, and John and I had it all to ourselves. During the day I did some exploring. I visited the stunning bay at Port Resolution, an unspoiled place where Captain Cook once landed to investigate the great red glow in the sky caused by Yasur. A nearby white sand beach offers superb snorkelling in the crystal clear waters of the lagoon, and afterward the local people fixed me a sumptuous feast of fresh reef fish, various tropical fruits and starchy tubers cooked in tasty sauces. Then I hired a horse for the 10 km trip back to the bungalows, from which Yasur's crater can be reached after a one hour hike or after 15 tumultuous minutes if the local 4WD truck happens to be available. I usually hiked up the mountain early each evening, whereas John waited for the truck as he did not relish the prospect of carrying his 75 kg of camera gear up the mountain. However, the truck was not usually available until around 8 pm each night, which meant I was always up at the crater for a few hours before John arrived. I would head back down around midnight, while hard-core volcano addict John stayed up there much later, sometimes all night long!
Port Resolution. Photo copyrighted by Mike Lyvers.
On another day I hiked to the John Frum cargo cult village at Sulphur Bay. In this paradise setting the local Melanesian villagers await the return of John Frum, a prophet who may have been an American soldier that visited the village during World War II. The village has its own beautiful black sand beach as well as a large hot spring pool to bathe in, accompanied by the frequent loud booms from the nearby volcano. The hot springs are new, having been uncovered by the great flood of 2000, which washed away part of the village and drained the shallow lake that for many years sat at the foot of the volcano; now only a desolate ash plain remains.
Sulphur Bay beach and Yasur Volcano. Photo copyrighted by Mike Lyvers.
At about 7 a.m. one morning John and I were violently awakened by an earthquake that shook our huts; John estimated the magnitude at around 5. The activity of the volcano was fairly consistent throughout our visit though it did fluctuate significantly on a scale of hours. On the last night I was chased away from the best viewing spot when a huge explosion sent a line of bombs rushing straight at me; fortunately they dropped just before the ledge I was on. On this night a few bombs even sailed completely out of the crater and down the mountainside. There is a safer viewing spot farther back which John and I generally used, and the view from there is only slightly less spectacular. We marvelled at the sight of thousands of lava bombs soaring high into the sky with each deafening blast, followed by an eerie swishing sound as they cut through the air and then finally a big BAM! when they slammed into the ground - sometimes not very far away from us!
Yasur by moonlight. Photo copyrighted by Mike Lyvers.
Yasur is one of the great wonders of the world, offering a unique opportunity to witness nature's most spectacular phenomenon at close range. However, it is not Disneyland and visitors must be alert at all times. Always check the activity level with the locals before going up the mountain. On this trip the activity level was rated at 2 out of 4; if the activity level is at a higher level than this, then the volcano should not be climbed, only observed from a safe distance.
John (left) and Mike at Yasur Volcano. Photo copyrighted by John Seach.
Anyone interested in a Yasur Volcano trip can contact John Seach via email at: john 'at' volcanolive.com
